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MasterChef 2011 contestant, Annie Assheton impressed the judges down to the final six on this year’s show and now impresses the chefs in the L’ortolan kitchen. Annie tells us about her ambitions to become a food writer and how dinner on the chefs table led to work experience in the L’ortolan Kitchen…

One of my reasons for applying to take part on MasterChef was that I hoped it would lead to all sorts of exciting new experiences and opportunities but whilst I certainly wanted to make a career out of food, working in a professional kitchen was never part of my plan.  Unlike many other competitors, I had no wish to start my own restaurant, café or patisserie, mainly because it was unlikely to fit in with family life.  As a result, it didn’t immediately occur to me that getting some experience in a top restaurant kitchen would do much to help me achieve my goals of writing and teaching about food and cookery.  But then two things happened in quick succession to make me change my mind.

On my 40th birthday my husband surprised me with dinner at the Chef’s Table at L’ortolan, an experience that I would recommend to anyone.  Not only was the menu incredibly inspiring and all of the dishes we tried utterly delicious, but I was also fascinated by the way the kitchen worked.  Contrary to my expectations it was calm, ordered and quietly efficient.  There were no raised voices, let alone shouting, and the obviously harmonious team worked together to produce beautiful and mouth-watering plates of food.  Elliott, the extremely patient head chef running the pass, must have been exhausted by the end of the evening during which I fired endless questions at him about ingredients and techniques.  Not only did I have a fabulous birthday celebration but I also left wanting to learn a great deal more about how that kind of food was produced.

Coincidentally, a few days later I was offered the opportunity to do just that through a family connection.  Elliott very generously agreed to let me come into the kitchen for a lunch service once a week during which I hoped I would pick up some tips about techniques, flavour combinations and unfamiliar ingredients.  I approached the kitchen with some trepidation on my first day, unsure about what to expect and whether or not I would just get in the way.  Thankfully, the first thing Elliott did after introducing me to everyone was to give me a job trimming a large batch of spinach leaves.  It was hardly challenging but had the great benefit of making me feel useful whilst allowing me to absorb the atmosphere of life in a working kitchen; so different from my experiences of being in pro kitchens on MasterChef, in contrived situations and surrounded by television cameras and producers trying to create and capture the drama.

I absolutely love my weekly visit to the L’ortolan kitchen.  I have learnt and been able to practise so many techniques, from boning out saddles of lamb and shaping tuille cones to helping plate up at the pass, and I have been exposed to flavour combinations and ideas which I find incredibly inspiring.  My husband always looks forward to my day at the restaurant because invariably I come home buzzing with new ideas and immediately set about recreating one of the dishes that I have been involved in preparing that day.  I have been amazed at how generous all the chefs are with both their time and their knowledge and now have absolutely no doubt that this experience is going to do much to help me achieve my own ambitions.  Long may it continue!

As the Three Course Summer Lunch Menu continues next week we welcome July’s ‘Cocktail of the Month’, The Ginger Rumster. This is a revitalising blend of Pampero white rum, bitters, lime wedges and a slice of fresh ginger, homemade ginger syrup and orange juice.

L’ortolan’s Sommelier, Jess, chose The Ginger Rumster for it’s refreshing, spiced and complex flavours. The marketing team photographed the creation of this delicious cocktail, and had the privilege of being the first to enjoy a taste! This is definitely a winner for those hot summer days.

The Ginger RumsterJess

The Ginger Rumster Cocktail welcomes you on arrival when dining on the Three Course Summer Lunch Menu. To sample Jess’s ‘Cocktail of the Month’ book a place on the Summer Lunch before the end of July. Until the end of June the ‘Cocktail of the Month’ is the ‘Vanilla and Apple Cooler’, and watch this space for the August Cocktail!

It was great this week to have a true athletics legend dining at L’ortolan on our famous ‘chef’s table’ in the heart of the kitchen. Olympic, World, European & Commonwealth sprint champion Linford Christie dined with me for lunch. Linford was at the peak of his career when I was following athletics as a young man (alongside fellow realbuzz.com blogger Sally Gunnell) and it’s safe to say he is a true legend. It was great to talk athletics, food, nutrition, teamwork and our new favourite subject Twitter, because it turns out Linford and I are big Twitter fans.

He’s a great character and still hugely passionate about sporting excellence and given 2012 and his elite training group, he is very much still involved with the sport. Linford like myself is also very much into mentoring and supporting youngsters. So it was great to hear about his plans and ambitions to be working with schools and developing an academy nurturing and encouraging talent and aspirations of excellence. It was also good to get Linford’s reaction to some of the dishes we serve at the restaurant. He is still in amazing shape, (I would easily whoop him over 10 miles though!) and is careful about his diet. As a very keen runner myself, I am fully aware of the nutritional and health elements of all the food we serve at the restaurant.

In fact two of the dishes that I serves at lunch typify the style of food that works for both foodies and athletes alike. Scallops with fregula & citrus purée combine fresh shellfish with high protein and high in complex carbohydrate fregula (ancient type of dried pasta made from semolina from Sardinia). Then I served him a Vietnamese chicken broth with pak choi and steamed sea bream. The chicken broth is flavoured with lemon grass, ginger and coriander and again, it’s low fat, healthy and nutritious. It was great for him to realise that fine dining does not mean cream, butter and fat and that healthy food can also be stunning and delicious!

Have a great week.

Alan

Originally posted on Alan Murchison’s realbuzz blog

For those of you that follow me on twitter you will have noticed the updates on the process involved in perfecting our stunning sour dough.  Young Dan in the pastry had been looking after his ferment (affectionately called FelicSourdoughity !) and the results were stunning.

We have had lots of interest about our bread and myself and Dan will be running a masterclass on 23rd June and allowing our guests to get a few of the secrets and techniques in producing our favourite bread.

The beauty about sourdough is you require nothing other than apple juice, salt and good quality flour, a good bit of technique and a little love and you can get a product that is truly amazing.  This technique dates back 1,000s of years.  Brought bang up to date through the medium of twitter !

Until next time …

Alan

Nice and busy in the kitchen, we have had a great start to the year, now working on a new a la carte dessert menu which will be on soon.  Stephen has some really interesting ideas for food and wine pairings which as we all know will be as creative and well thought out as ever.

All our new chefs have fitted in well and we had a great lift this week as my old sous chef Phil Fanning won an Acorn Award.  This is a great achievement as only 30 young hospitality  professionals under 30 receive this award annually.  A lot of our kitchen team at L’ortolan worked with Phil so we all are chuffed to bits for him.  Hopefully we can get Phil back to the L’ortolan kitchen soon to do a guest chef evening and show us how his food has developed over the last 18 months.

Keep an eye on twitter for daily news from the kitchen @alanmurchison @lortolan

New Staff at L'ortolan

Mathais, Sabrina, David, Kate, Alan

It’s a great time of year in the kitchen, spring is so exciting – berries, tomatoes, new season lamb, wild garlic and English asparagus.

Less exciting was having no kitchen extraction for two weeks !! Too old for that carry on.

Working with the guys now on a new menu, first changes have been done and now moving onto desserts. It’s going to be a good one !

We’ll also be running a ‘signature’ dinner menu each month to celebrate 10 years at L’ortolan – great to cook some of the classic L’ortolan dishes from the repertoire. You forget how good some of these dishes are.

We’ve recruited some great new team members.  In the restaurant we have the lovely Scottish/Geordie David and the smiley Sabrina, say hello next time you are in the restaurant.  Behind the kitchen door we have Mathais and Kate who come to join us after spending a few years with a certain Mr Ramsey.  Mathais has a very impressive CV in 2/3 * Michelin restaurants.  It’s great we are attracting quality people all the time.

Away to peel asparagus.

Happy cooking.

Alan

All at L’ortolan are delighted that our wine list has once again been selected for the final round of the 2011-2012 AA Wine Award.

Introduced in 1998, the AA Wine Award recognises an outstanding contribution to promoting wine understanding and appreciation. Nominees are judged on the quality of their wine list and their ability to inspire customers to make wider and more adventurous choices in selecting wines.

L’ortolan has been judged as having a Notable Wine List and as such has been selected to go forward to the final round of the 2011-2012 AA Wine Award, sponsored by T&W Wines. In acknowledgement of this achievement L’ortolan will receive a Notable Wine List symbol highlighted beside its entry in the 2012 AA Restaurant Guide and will also be sent a certificate in September to coincide with the annual launch of this guide.

Of the AA Notable Wine List finalists, one winner will be chosen each for England, Scotland and Wales.

We’ll keep you updated on our progress!

I’m not sure who is enjoying the Guest Chef evenings at L’ortolan more – our customers or the team of chefs in the kitchen! 

The Guest Chef evenings are set to continue throughout 2011 to mark the restaurant’s tenth anniversary.    So far we have enjoyed the fabulous company and cuisine of Will Holland (La Bécasse, Ludlow) and Tom Kerridge (Hand & Flowers, Marlow).  Each of the special menus was complemented by Stephen Nisbet’s imaginative wine pairings- and sometimes a beer.

For Will, who returned here in January, it was a surreal experience as he left in 2007 having spent three years as Head Chef at L’ortolan.  After the evening he said ‘What an honour to be the first chef in an amazing line up of guest chefs planned to cook at L’ortolan this year to help celebrate 10 years.  It was great to see so many regular guests making a special effort to attend the evening and I hope everyone got a true taste of what La Bécasse food is all about.’

Will Holland, Alan Murchison, Elliott Lidtsone

Last week guests were treated to a truly mouthwatering dinner by Tom Kerridge.     I wasn’t lucky enough to be there on the evening but from the amazing feedback we have had from guests and  Alan Murchison’s entertaining ‘tweets’ throughout service I gather the evening was a huge success and thoroughly enjoyed by all involved….let the pictures speak for themselves!  

 Alan Murchison & Tom Kerridge

 

Still more to look forward to as we await details of Chris Horridge’s menu for March 17th …and the line up of guest chefs for April, May & June!

It’s officially the 1st of December – the first doors on advent calendars are being opened, which means we’re finally okay to talk about Christmas.

Our Festive Lunch is proving so popular that L’ortolan is now open Monday – Saturday until 24th December, and to make the run up to Christmas even more exciting, we are offering our guests the chance to win some fabulous prizes!

Pommery Wintertime

During your time at l’ortolan why not treat yourself to a special glass of Champagne.  Pommery Wintertime is a vintaged blend of 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Pinot Meunier with a palate of warm aromas if ripe fruit infused with the flavours of quince and red fruits.  This Champagne, designed specifically to enjoy during the cooler months is a fantastic addition to any meal.  Each person who buys a glass of Pommery Wintertime will be entered into a prize draw to win a fantastic collection of prizes including a Bronze Chef’s Experience, a Magnum of Pommery Champagne and place in our Demonstration Studio.

Festive Feeling

We’re getting into the festive swing at l’ortolan, and we want to know what makes you feel festive.  Simply become a fan of l’ortolan on Facebook, complete the sentence “I get the Festive Feeling when…” and post it on our Facebook wall for a chance to win a share of £150 to spend at l’ortolan.

At the end of next week we will reinvigorating our lunch menu ready for the festive season.  In this blog, Sommelier Stephen Nisbet explains how one of the key elements of the Festive Lunch was born:  The L’ortolan Festive Cocktail.

During the run up to Christmas in 2005, the then l’ortolan Head Chef Will Holland received a huge order of figs in order to prepare them for the December menu.  The figs were to be poached and served with vanilla panacotta, so during November they were lightly cooked and placed in large preserving jars filled to the brim with a poaching liquor made with red wine, port, ginger, cinnamon, oranges and lemons, cloves, demerea sugar, star anise, vanilla, black peppercorns and bay leaves.

At the end of the month, the figs were removed from the jars, ready to be prepared for portioning and service in December – and we were left with 30 litres of the most amazing tasting fluid in the jars.

Luckily I had staked a claim on the liquid in advance, otherwise I’m sure that Will would have transformed the juice into a jelly or a sorbet.  Initially I’d planned to use it neat as an ingredient for a mixed drink, but it was Will who suggested that we created a ‘syrup’ to add to sparkling wine – Kir Royale style!

After several hours on a low heat we were left with a concentrated liquid, about a quarter of the original volume and packed with flavour.

We filled mineral water bottles, and relabelled it “L’ortolan Festive Cocktail” and our guests loved it and our batch sold out.

Since then, each year we create a new syrup, especially for l’ortolan guests.  In the last few years, if we’ve had any syrup left over we use it as a base for the following year’s – but the results are always amazingly different and the mixing of flavours is a real adventure.

In 2007 we tried a citrus syrup made with various orange and lemon liqueurs, last year’s was quite a spicy number as I found some fantastic ginger and mixed spice syrups  that are the best quality – and this year will be more blackcurranty.

To sample Stephen’s 2010 Festive Cocktail book a place on the l’ortolan Festive Lunch running from the 28th November.

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